It’s hot. End of weather report. And as you can see, they don’t allow trumpet playing here, which is another downer.
I’m tapping this in the shelter and squalor of a former beachfront house that has been abandoned, ruined and completely degraded, though not necessarily in that order. It’s an utter hovel apparently used by uncouth fishermen and maybe wild boars.
But a fragment of extant roof provides shade and the lack of front wall permits the entrance of soothing breezes and the sound of breaking waves. It also enjoys nice views of the nuclear plant I passed earlier. I’ve been hiding from the sun and even napped sitting upright, leaning back on an overturned armchair. I think things are crawling into my pack.
My trip is going well and since this morning I have been in uncharted territory. Started at 5:00 from Haeundae yesterday; it was like hell with inner tubes. The ultimate performance-enhancing duo of latte and cheesecake sped me north to Songjeong Beach, which is normally pleasant but yesterday was the filthiest beach I’ve ever seen.
I was alternately laughing in astonishment, muttering “You…PEOPLE!” with increasing fury, and taking pictures in full view of all the crap that people had dumped right where they sat, hoping to shame them.
Further north, as the sun went down I was stymied by another army base which I tried to sneak round via the rocks but retreated before the searchlights came on or I fell to my death. Backtracked to the road which cost me an hour. Grrr.
But my luck soon improved when I met a local real estate agent called Chang who offered his fishing-village office to bathe and sleep. Trail magic on the first day, an excellent omen.
Started at six today, stopped briefly at three superheated beaches where the sound of crackling skin was tangible; swam at one amid schools of inquisitive plastic flotsam that nibbled, nudged and nuzzled my torso and legs to my, well, disgust. (I think there was some jetsam in there as well. I bloody hate jetsam.)
Anyway, time for an ocean bath and then I’ll hit the road and do a few hours into the evening. I hope to make Ulsan tomorrow and perhaps get a room even better than this one.
~ And that’s all the Goat wrote