Skip to content

Diced Fruit & Flying Trees on the Weg der Schweiz

path & wall

LATE NOVEMBER, 2010

Contemplating the purchase of an idiot-proof GPS, I stride ever further away from Altdorf station. My error costs me an hour, but I’m walking at a caffeinated clip and if I must get lost, at least I’m doing it at an awe-inspiring pace.

The unplanned diversion does provide a surprise bonus. Doubling back, I spy atop a little hill a jagged spike, ruins of something striking and very old:

The ruins

A glance back at the mountains, and I’m Altdorf-bound again:

Altdorf dwarfed by mountains

At last I reach the market square of Altdorf. A dozen altstadts in Switzerland and they never lose their power to make my jaw drop. This little city is capital of Uri canton, and relics dating back to the 3rd century BC have been unearthed here. Nowadays it’s known for its bronze monument, erected in 1895, to Wilhelm Tell:

The famed memorial

Uri is one of the three founding cantons of the Swiss Federation, and was also home to that most famous of Swiss libertarians, Mr Tell. Unfortunately, the evidence for his existence is inconclusive at best — he seems to serve an equivalent role in Swiss folklore to England’s Robin Hood.

This is the very spot where Tell, who had offended the Austrian Habsburg bailiff Gessler by refusing to bow to his hat, was ordered to shoot an apple from his son’s head:

Hans Rudolf Manuel Deutsch (1525–1571)

Here’s Tell, grateful Walter, and this early example of Swiss precision tool-making:

A half-hour of trying to squeeze the monument into my viewfinder, to the amusement of several locals awaiting their bus, and I am at last heading to the lake and the resumption of the path:

This part of Switzerland is almost 90% Catholic. There’s no escaping His presence, even on the trail:

It’s another cold, bleakly overcast day, another virtually deserted pathway. The view across the lake reveals the enormous peaks I scuttled beneath yesterday:

Yesterday's route on the far shore

Pretty soon I’m back inside the mountains. The old road. Magnificent vistas framed by rough-hewn windows; a mezzanine of mountains. More Tolkien flashbacks, a sensational bit of walking, even sans trolls and dwarves:

A gallery window...

..and another

Canton Uri took its name from an old German word for wild ox. Here’s the cantonal coat of arms:

Flat land for roads in Switzerland is at a premium. This old road I’m hiking down was cut right into the cliff:

In a few places, drivers on the modern road can pull over to take in the views:

Rest area

I descend to the lake shore and the quaint Tellskapelle — Tell Chapel — dating from the early 1500s, though the current structure was built in 1879. The chapel is accessible by boat and annual services are held here:

Approaching the chapel

Its four-panelled frescoe depicts the highlights of the Tell legend, painted by Ernst Stückelberg in the early 1889s, and kept secure behind a locked gate:

With some contortion I am able to capture part of each dramatic panel through the bars. Here’s that swine Gessler and the uppity Tell:

1st panel

Chapel plaque

Refusing to submit, and having revealed his intention to kill the bailiff if his son had been sliced instead of the apple, Tell is put in chains and taken by boat towards Gessler’s castle. In what seems suspiciously like divine intervention, a storm descends on the Urnersee, and Tell is unbound and ordered to steer; he escapes, making it ashore at this very spot, known as the Tellsplatte:

2nd panel

Our hero then makes his way on foot to the Hohle Gasse, an alleyway between the Immensee and Gessler’s Küssnacht stronghold, where he ambushes the tyrant and puts that mighty crossbow to deadly use:

3rd panel

The ensuing tide of rebellion culminates in the oath sworn at Rütli (see previous post), and Tell figures again in the subsequent conflicts:

4th panel

Stirring stuff. Suitable stirred, I climb up above the lake again…

Last glance at the chapel

..and resume my journey…

Tell country

All morning I’ve been hearing the throb of a far-off helicopter, rising and falling like the spasms of a bad hangover. With each bend in the path, the volume increases…

The path goes ever onward

Entering Canton Thurgau's section

Memorial plaque

The memorial to a long-dead tunnel construction worker. I wonder if Josef Rennerschuler is remembered at all, 56 years later. Still, a plaque is more than a lot of folk get…

Into Sisikon…

First glimpse of Sisikon

..and out again, a stiff little climb, with some truly bizarre diversion above:

Flying tree

Aerial forestry. Workers on a steep hillside are felling trees. There’s no room for a truck, so they attach that line to a trunk, chainsaw it, and pluck it out of there and down the road to dump it and return not 10 minutes later…

Mountain forestry Swiss-style

I pass a schützenhaus – an emergency hut for winter use. The copter is still at work in the distance:

Hut above Sisikon

Buried marker

And up I climb, onto a country lane, through quiet, snow-covered pastures. A woman comes out of a big old farmhouse, says hello, and stares. With dusk settling in, I race towards the lights of Morschach, a ski resort-village dating from the 13th century.

I descend in darkness, past sleeping chairlifts, sedentary chalets, through the woods above Brunnen. A couple, taking an evening walk, nod hello. A young guy points me at the station in careful, accurate English.

High above Sisikon

High pasture

Last climb

Barn icicles

A cold dusk

Distant Brunnen

Brunnen

Another spotless carriage. I’ve come full circle on the Swiss Path and conclude an amazing walk with another cold Swiss beer, another hearty sandwich…

~ And that’s all the Goat wrote

No comments yet

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 4,299 other followers

%d bloggers like this: