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A Shambles of a Ramble (& a Scrambled-Up Preamble)

Hey, all. I’m tapping this up in my favourite local cafe, after a Monday that began less than ideally with a student collapsing, distraught, onto the floor after I pretended to award his (evidently much-cherished) Rubik’s Cube as a prize to another student. My humour does not always settle comfortably into the Korean classroom.

Things picked up after that, but not much, and the day’s highlight until I got here was still the afternoon nap in the teachers’ room, during which I have a feeling I was snoring. I got up at 4:00am, as I did yesterday, and the day was as long as it was draining.

Then I got here to the So Pung (it means “picnic”!) and thought I was ordering a latte and muffin as a reward for surviving another Monday. The latte was predictably superb, but the “muffin” came in a gigantic glass bowl and consisted of a mountain of shaved ice smothered in sliced fruit, sweetened red bean paste and a sprinkling of…cornflakes?

My first sampling of patbingsu, even better for being consumed alone and not as the object of a Korean-style group feeding frenzy. Dipping one’s spoon into a communal bowl is a custom I will never warm to.

So I thought I’d share a few pictures from that little misadventure of two weekends ago (crudely summarised in the previous post) when I attempted to circumambulate Big Ass Mountain by road and got my own posterior in a spot of bother. I’m obviously running out of challenges here, but I’ve got a birthday approaching, so will try to come up with something cool…

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A cool and cloudy dawn. After stumbling around the Yulha rice paddies for a bit, frolicking with the indigenous arachnids in the shadow of Big Ass, I settled down near the Red Bridge and chatted to Kate, long distance, over (a can of) coffee…

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Distant Roadworks Ridge & the Shade-Eater Forest

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A Friendly Wave Beneath Big Ass

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Are You Bored with My Reflections Yet?

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Stacy — or Maybe Sid. I Get Them Mixed Up.

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Red Bridge, a Local Celeb

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Cemetery Ridge, dotted with countless ancient graves

..before inspiration struck and I decided to give a circular road-walk a shot.

The roads cooperated, at first, and the paddies were a vivid, refreshing green:

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Eyes

I even discovered a tiny, slumbering village squeezed between new highway and mountainside, where a farmer, grinning wide and toothless, passed on a motorbike with two little kids on the back:

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Hollyhocks & a Remnant Village

Road-workers were out enjoying a Sunday excursion of their own, and at times I walked a sleek new road still off limits to the vehicular masses:

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The Road-Walker’s Nightmare

And then I reached the Nakdong River, briefly considered walking its bank, held off, briefly considered the sensible option of following a marked trail up the tip of my mountain, held off, briefly considered studying this map…

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In Retrospect It Seems So Obvious

..but decided to keep things interesting (the Blogger’s Code), and kept on walking…

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Grassy Nakdong Bank

..to find myself skirting a racecourse, keeping my mountain on my right, hoping to join another road around it.

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Aiming at My Mountain

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Fill ‘Er Up

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Greenhouse Graveyard

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Ghost Greenhouses

With some trepidation, I entered a nightmare zone of dust clouds, pile-drivers, cranes, trucks and scaffolding that stood between me and the security of my sweet Big Ass.

I was sure I would be hollered at, and chased out, but I had my orders, so tried to make myself as small and inconspicuous as a camera-totin’ westerner in sunglasses (R.I.P.) and a camo-print Buff can be on a Korean worksite.

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Not What I Had in Mind

Miraculously, I made it through the emerging industrial estate, past this now-anachronistic temple…

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The Gods’ Last Stand

..to find no road — at least no completed road — but a wall straight out of Kafka that I was fortunately able to bypass:

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The Wall of Doom

And then, with no great pleasure, since I was not in a climbing mood, I began climbing.

I cleared the rubble and the freshly upturned earth…

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Looking Back Before the Climb

..and a brand-new dam above the estate…

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Dam It

..and was in dense, scratchy undergrowth with only rudimentary tracks or worse.

Some unpleasantness ensued, and a fair bit of sighing and grumbling. I reached a ridge — an unknown ridge, where I literally gasped with astonishment at what I saw. I’d seen that rising tower complex twice before, but never from this angle  – from near that second pylon way along the ridge:

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Mountain Splendour

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How Many Lightbulbs Does It Take to Change a Mountain?

And for a while now I was at a loss as to how to proceed. My little road-stroll was unravelling in an upwards direction, but I was committed, so up I went, despite a lack of path…

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The Lost Trail

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Now Accepting Reservations

..to leave the jungle, sporting several jaunty new cuts and scratches, on the ridge I knew — a subsidiary of Big Ass proper.

Being hot and tired and hungry, and kinda fed up, and with such a long path still between me and the paddies below, I opted to go straight over the side just past this glimpse of the way ahead, with the spot my adventure had started at centre-right:

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At Last, the Circle is Almost Complete

And then a wearisome skid down the slippery-slidey slopes, till I reached, quite literally, rock bottom, sans very expensive sunglasses and my last rations of enthusiasm.

It was hot out there on the rice-paddy plain at Yulha, where I paused to drain a beer and tend my cuts, and then bypassed the coffee emporia and the weekend strollers and finally made it to my tiny refuge — where I am now — never more welcome than as the prize at journey’s end.

And that’s how I spent my Sunday.

~ And that’s all the Goat wrote

A Jangyu Dawn Trilogy # 3: Rice Paddy Ramblin’

Yesterday I woke even earlier for my Sunday ramble — ridiculously early, even for me — and hit the street before the first sunbeams. Thumped zombie-fashion down to the Yulha again, ambled its banks (where the coreopsis thickets that featured in the last post are starting to die off), climbed to the road and down to the rice paddy edges, dodged the odd early-starting dump-truck driver heading to or from the highway construction scarring the valley walls, took a few halfhearted shots of spiders and reflections and finally admitted that I didn’t know where the hell I was heading. Read more

A Jangyu Dawn Trilogy # 2: Creek Bank Cruisin’

“It is interesting to contemplate a tangled bank, clothed with many plants of many kinds, with birds singing on the bushes, with various insects flitting about, and with worms crawling through the damp earth, and to reflect that these elaborately constructed forms, so different from each other, and dependent upon each other in so complex a manner, have all been produced by laws acting around us. . .” ~ Charles Darwin

You meet the best folk when you rise early. Read more

A Jangyu Dawn Trilogy # 1: Muddy Road Meanderin’

Hey, all. I’m typing this on the terrace of one of my favourite weekend haunts, Cafe 7gram in Yulha, 20 minutes’ walk from home. It’s late afternoon on Korean Memorial Day and I spent the day in my patented weekend Goat-walking style. Let me tell you how I get the mileage and some photography in during the merciless heat and light of almost-Summer. Read more

Dirty, Dirty Korea

Around the middle of last week we got some decent rain, and Daecheong Creek, down here in Jangyu where it widens and levels out after its carefree tumble down the gullies of Bulmo-San, roared with an uncharacteristic wildness. Read more

Salt Spray on the Dragon’s Doorstep

Just before I split from bustling Haeundae Beach (barely a minute after arriving), an older guy approached, asked if I was a photographer, smiled with compassion worthy of the Buddha himself when I confessed my true calling, and proceeded to list all the other westerners he’d befriended. Then he commenced a detailed discourse on the history of Yonggung Temple. Read more

Fashionably Late to the Buddha’s Birthday Bash

Did you ever have one of those jobs where entering the office some mornings was like sailing a cursed clipper ship into a fog of doom?

Actually, just about every job I’ve ever had has been like that. Read more

The Empty Land

Back to Japan this post, folks: freezing Hokkaido and the beginning of my ill-fated and immediately disastrous attempt to walk the length of Japan from top to bottom in 2008 (my friend Chris was down in the tropical south, walking north). Read more

The Phantom Dog Feeder

I wouldn’t want to be born a dog in Korea.

After sixteen months in the country and with at least a thousand miles on foot behind me, I’ve seen and been yapped at by enough mutts to conclude that you can broadly segregate them into three groups. Read more

Swinging Buddhas (Scene from a Stroll # 11)

Hey, all. Just to show that there’s more to the mean streets of Jangyu than the trash and decay I highlighted in the last post, I thought I’d balance things out today with a bit of urban beauty.

This is the first of my Scenes from a Stroll to feature more than one picture, but I think this lot work together as a series. And to tell the truth, I couldn’t bear to break up the set! Read more

Feel the Grandeur!

Their roofs, doors, windows and other useful parts were cannibalised long ago. Only their cinder-block-and-concrete shells remain, and perhaps the faded cheer of their pastel overcoats.

Spring seedlings advance to their rubble-littered edges… Read more

A Riverbank Sunrise, a Rice Paddy Breakfast

A few minutes’ walk from my place, the frisky ponies frolicking down Daecheong Creek that I described in the last post are corralled in concrete, broken in and tamed into prancing show ponies. The Daecheong from that point is a sad and languid canal that slumps obediently towards the ocean near Busan, its sides and banks liberally strewn with trash, its momentum disrupted with spillovers and channels and detours through pipes. Hard to believe it’s the same waterway. Read more

This Time I’m Really Up the Creek

“God damn it!”

I was taking a hard-earned morning nap in the storeroom next to my Fortress of Solitude when that godawful bell ruined everything, announcing the conclusion of the day’s midterm exams. 12:15. I slumped grumpily to the window and watched the students escaping, free for the rest of their Friday.

My Friday was free only of classes. I still had to turn up, to sit in the empty room with its broken computer for eight hours. I had seen no other teachers all morning. I flicked through a book — one of those paper ones they used to make last century — and stared out the window, itching for my own escape. Read more

Spring Snow & Frozen Fingers # 2: Down

The conclusion of yesterday’s tale. Two posts in 24 hours = two consecutive days of doing something useful at work! This could be habit-forming…

So back I went along the ridge, down the foggy ruins of time (Bob Dylan), umbrella swishing nice cold raindrops into my eyes from low-hanging boughs. I dug my main camera back out of my pack, slung it round my neck and resumed my struggle against the forces of darkness — I mean the forces of moisture. I’m pretty reckless with that little machine, but I’d rather have it handy and risk a few raindrops than have to keep stopping and retrieving it. Read more

Spring Snow & Frozen Fingers # 1: Up

Hey, people, thanks for dropping by as always. I’ve split this post, about last Saturday’s unexpectedly interesting little walk, into two parts, carefully calculated to allow uninhibited digestion over two consecutive bowls of cereal. Expect the next installment in 24 hours or so. Read more

As I Went Out One Evening (Scene from a Stroll # 10)

Travelling there [in the mainstream] was really boring so I headed for the ditch. It was a rough ride but I met more interesting people there ~ Neil Young

It’s instructional if occasionally depressing to pay attention to the roadside in Korea (Japan too, for that matter) when you’re out walking. The amount of trash that ends up there is phenomenal; in the countryside, farm edges, ditches and embankments, particularly on mountain backroads, often function as useful spots to drive out, haul your old TVs, toasters — damn, even fridges — from the trunk or truck tray, and hurl them into the undergrowth before heading home, job done. Read more

Paths of Pain to Jewels of Glory

The first nickname I gave it was Mount (-ing) Devastation, applied after a dispiriting walk to its base last year.

It’s the most impressive bump on the spectacularly bumpy perimeter of the rice-paddy country nudging up to Daecheong Creek and the dirty streets of Jangyu. My gaze repeatedly strays to its stern pyramidal eminence as I limp home from Hell Skool on Thursdays and Fridays. Looking at it always cheers me up. Read more

Lucky 13

Bow down to her on Sunday
Salute her when her birthday comes ~ Bob Dylan

It’s my gal Kate’s birthday, and we’re a few thousand miles apart, which is damned inconvenient, but on tonight’s birthday Skype (it’s the evening of the 13th here; in New York she’d just gotten up but looked a lot hotter than I do at 6:30am, if you can believe that) I promised her a birthday treat, and here it is: her very own tribute post on TGTW! Read more

The Proud Homeowners (Scene from a Stroll # 9)

The nest of the Korean magpie, known as the ggachi, is a ubiquitous addition to the skyline in the farmland fringes and right into the apartment tower heartland. Though the birds themselves are difficult to photograph with my prime lens since they never stop in one place for very long and are wary about intrusive weigookin (foreigners) like me getting too close, their nests — enormous and unkempt assemblages of sticks — can be spotted from a great distance. Read more

Man & Stick: A Love Story for the Ages

..a queasy, disorienting feeling came over me.

Something was missing. I stood there on the roadside, checked for wallet, sunglasses, lens cap, glasses: all present. I clicked on the camera, reviewed the last shots from my Sineo-San walk, trying to spark a memory, saw this one of the cherry-bordered mountain road I’d just descended… Read more

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